We have decided to take a break from Colombo and head south
with my mum for a few days. She has organised
a Jetwing Tailor-Made holiday for us with Sriyantha, the Manager with whom we
have dealt with on previous occasions.
Being able to design your own itinerary together with Jetwing is ideal
for someone like me who doesn’t want to be just a passenger on a tour
group. See their website for more
details.
Rest stop on the Southern Highway |
http://www.srilankatailormade.com/why-tailormade/
Fisherman haul in the nets |
A tailor made tour enables you to venture outside the beaten
path if you wish, giving the traveller a unique taste of what this Island has
to offer. We have a new guide this year
and his name is Mallick. He helps us
load our bags into the spacious van we have hired and we are on our way. On my bucket list is a wish to see some
whales in the wild and the stilt fisherman of Weligama. I feel excited…
We are taking the new Southern Expressway for the first time
and arrive in Galle in record time. We
have got lucky and stumble across a community of fisherman hauling in their
nets. The scene is a hive of activity
and the sound of their singing fills the air.
“Hodi Hellai, Hellai ya”, the fisherman chant as they pull the nets in,
both to lighten the task at hand as well as to maintain their rhythm. It is a lot of work but when the net is
finally brought ashore, there is only a small catch to
Galle Fort - UNESCO World Heritage Site |
We stop at the Galle Fort to take in the view. Before long we are approached by one of the
Galle Fort jumper who dives into the ocean from the ramparts for about $20
dollars. I look down at the rocks and
feel nervous for him and a little hesitant to support a practice that might
prove to be a dangerous pastime. He
convinces me that this is what he does everyday, he knows what
Galle Fort Jumper |
We enjoy a drive through the fort before Mallick parks the
van and says we should walk around the fort to get a better sense of this
place. It was the Portuguese who
initially came here in 1505. When they
eventually moved here in the late fifteen hundreds, they constructed a rampart
to defend the city. When the Dutch
colonised Sri Lanka, they rebuilt the fort with a stone defence wall to render
it impenetrable against the English, French, Danish, Spanish and Portuguese
fleets vying with Holland for the supremacy of the seas.
It feels much calmer to be inside the fort, than
to be on the outside. The narrow streets
lend a more intimate feel to the place and we stop to browse the local
shops. There are also a couple of historic
churches, mosques and other beautiful buildings including a museum within the
walls. The fort was eventually taken
over by the British and is one of the best examples of a European fortified
city in this part of the world. Today,
many artist and foreign visitors spend time here. It would be a great spot to write if not for
the fact the heat and humidity in the middle of the afternoon felt
stifling!
Stilt Fisherman in Weligama |
We leave Galle for Mirissa, where we will stay for 3
days. On the way we stop to watch some
stilt fisherman perched on their ‘fishing sticks’. Sri Lanka is the only place in the world
where you will see stilt fishing although it appears to be a dying art. Sitting
on a rather unsteady stick for hours on end in the hope of catching a few fish
that will bring a few dollars is no easy task.
These days they hope the travellers passing by will not only take photos
they will make contribution to putting some rice on the table. I got the photos I wanted but it didn’t feel
like a truly authentic experience due to the commercial nature that now
exists.
Barbecued Seafood on the Beach |
Our resort at Mirissa was just what the doctor ordered. We checked into a family suite and enjoyed
going for a dip in the ocean. The waves
were crashing quite ferociously and we were buffeted and pummelled a fair bit
but it was an exhilarating experience and a great way to relax. We were also in for a delightful surprise for
dinner when the resort staff moved the tables onto the beach, lighting candles
and creating a wonderful atmosphere.
Tables laden with the days catch were then setup together with a BBQ on
which our dinner was cooked. It was a
wonderful start to our southern escape.
Day two was spent whale watching. The south coast of Sri Lanka is one of the
best places in the world to watch whales.
From blue whales and sperm whales to spinner dolphins, the ocean is
teeming with life. Many of my friends
have reported seeing hundreds of dolphins but at first we didn’t really see
"Tail Up" - Blue Whales off the coast of Sri Lanka |
Stilt Fisherman - Weligama |
We drive back to Galle on Day 3, stopping once again to see
some of the stilt fisherman on the way.
Our first stop is the turtle hatchery where we learn a little about these
species. Sri Lanka is home to 5 of the
world's 7 species of turtles. They come ashore to lay their eggs but
unfortunately, many of these eggs are poached and sold for about AUD$0.25
each. The staff at the hatchery,
together with volunteers work to recover these eggs and re-bury them in a safe
place, giving these turtles a chance at life. Only fresh eggs can be eaten so
if the eggs are saved in the first 24 hours of being laid, the turtles have a
chance of being born.
Turtle Hatchery |
We also visited the folk museum complex in Koggala, which
includes the house that the famous Sri Lankan author Martin Wickramasinghe lived
in for many years. The grounds are
peaceful and green and we really enjoyed browsing through lots of memorabilia
from yesteryear.
Japanese Peace Pagoda |
We also visited the Japanese Peace Pagoda - a wonderful
place to meditate if you were so inclined.
Beautiful views of the ocean and coconut palms swaying in the breeze
remind you where you are. It was lunchtime
and we decide to check out the luxurious Jetwing Lighthouse Hotel for
lunch. The creation of Sri Lanka’s
renowned architect Geoffrey Bawa, it is a beautifully crafted hotel. We loved the minimalistic, rustic nature of
the place with its wide-open verandas that afforded beautiful views of the
ocean and let the sea breezes in.
We head back for our last ocean dip and candle lit dinner on
the beach. On the way back we detour to
Weligama to discover the monument and church honouring the first Methodist
missionaries who were shipwrecked here 200 years ago. That night, over margaritas and seafood we
say goodbye to a wonderfully relaxing stay at Mirissa Bay Resort.
Fish Market - Mirissa |
We check out on Day 4 to head to Uda Walawe. Our first stop had been the Mirissa Fish Market where we had
enjoyed the hustle and bustle of a fish auction. We had been amazed to learn the deep sea fisherman
stay out at sea for 2 months before coming back to shore with their catch. The scene was chaotic and colourful and I
could have stayed here much longer than the short visit our schedule permitted.
We visit a couple of temples on the way. The first of these was the Devundara (meaning City of Gods) Temple, located in Dondra, the southern most point of the island. A Buddhist Devalaya dedicated to god Vishnu attracts both Hindu and Buddhist devotees who were engaged in various acts of devotion. From lighting oil lamps, to smashing coconuts and taking baskets of fruit and
Weerahena Temple |
The highlight of Day 4 was our visit to Uda Walawe. We first checked into our accommodation at
the Thuduwa Camp where we left our bags and my mum at the rustic chalets that
will be home for the night. The grounds
are well designed and the chalets that look like they belong more in a remote
Sri Lankan village reveal quite comfortable beds and washroom when you peeked
inside.
We drove to the Uda Walawe
National Park where we exchanged our van for a 4-wheel drive jeep and setoff on
our safari. We were rewarded right away
by a sighting of two elephants right by the roadside, quite unperturbed by our
jeep only a few feet away. As the
afternoon wore on we spotted some rare birds, more elephants, mating peacocks,
and a few crocs. It was a great
experience and we headed back to camp having come to the end of our fabulous
getaway!
Uda Walawe |
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