While in Thessaloniki we did a day trip to Meteora, one of
the largest and most important Orthodox monasteries in Greece, second only to
Mount Athos.
It is of course a UNESCO
World Heritage site and is listed under a number of categories. We take a train to the edge of the plain of
Thessaly to a town called Kalambaka from where we reach our accommodation at
Kastraki. We are excited to be here and
after checking in to our guest house, we go for a walk. It is rather late in the season and the town
is deserted but we enjoy the cool fresh air - a welcome relief after the fumes
we had been breathing in Thessaloniki.
Meteora literally means “suspended in the air”, and through
the dark shadows of the night we can almost see the huge sandstone pinnacles
that tower around us and encircle the town.
I am so excited to be here and can’t wait for daylight so I can see the
surrounding landscape a little better.
We are in one of the oldest inhabited places on earth. They
have found radio carbon evidence of human presence from over 50 thousand years
ago in the caves just a few miles from here.
It was around the 9th century that an ascetic group of monks
first moved in the crevices in the rocks.
It is exciting to be in a place that is perhaps one of the oldest examples
of communal living. While the exact date
of establishment of the monasteries is unknown, it is believed to be around the
11th or 12th century.
The monks felt secure high up in the rocks, which could only be reached
by climbing a rope ladder. Any time they
felt threatened, this ladder could be drawn up.
Around the 14th century about 20 monasteries were built
partly as a retreat from the expansion of Turkish raids. Today, only 6 of these structures
remain.
In true monastic style we decided to spend an entire day
hiking to each of the 6 monasteries after taking the bus to the farthest
one. It gave us a real sense of this
incredible place. We breathed clean air
and listened to the silence only occasionally broken by the sound of the wind
in the trees or the distant bells of a goat herd. We saw incredible views, stopped to chat to
the locals and saw the day change from overcast to bright blue and then to rain
clouds that never actually gave way to rain but instead rewarded us with a brilliant
rainbow.
Only two of the 6 monasteries were actually open but they gave us enough of an insight to what life must have been like here. One of the monasteries we visited (St Stephen’s) was actually for women.
Two local women who were hiking the hills gave us a little
more information about the place. The
monks lived here in a completely sustainable fashion relying little on the
surrounding town. Today, with the
numbers of tourists that visit, and the dollars that flow in, life for the
monks is a little bit different.
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