The City of Silk–Mysore

Our journey from Cochin to Mysore was always going to be tricky but we never guessed it would eventually involve almost 24 hours of travel.  We started off around 4 in the afternoon and piled into private cars to travel to a restaurant about an hour away where we would stop for a leisurely dinner before catching the train.  The night train was air conditioned and more pleasant that the one we had been in previously.  However, we arrived at a station about 8 kms out of Bangalore which made the rest of the journey a little more tricky.  Our attempt to arrange a private bus to Mysore from this station failed and so we resorted to a couple of public busses to get us to Bangalore.  Getting on a public bus, weighed down with luggage was an interesting experience.  We were fortunate to get some seats but we had inadvertently sat in the ladies section, not realising that the front of the bus was reserved for women.  A group of noisy young women get on and start yelling at Steve – “Ladies, Ladies” they scream.  He looked around him and noticing that none of the other young men were making an effort to get up, firmly stayed in his seat.  A seat frees up next to him and 2 kids and a woman squeeze in, virtually forcing him off his seat.  I am reminded of my bus journeys as a child in Sri Lanka and am glad when we get off with everything intact.  It was an interesting experience but not one I will miss!

We finally have breakfast at noon in Bangalore, before boarding our final bus to Mysore.  It is air conditioned and comfortable and we arrive at our destination about 24 hours after setting out!  Our time is limited in Mysore, so after a bit of a rest we hit the local markets.  They are a busy, noisy places and a jumble of colours and smells.  They are places where you can buy almost anything for a bargain and are similar to local markets in most Asian cities. 

Young men follow us around making conversation and tempting us with colourful jewellery.  The markets are a photographers delight…so I’m happy.  This city is famous for its silk, and so we eventually find ourselves in an upmarket shop where the girls have fun trying on Indian outfits and finding souvenirs.

The next day we wake up early to visit a Hindu Temple and the Dutch Palace.  Steve and I skip the hike up the hill and take the lazy option of driving up there in the van.  We take a circuitous route and enjoy the surrounding countryside. 

We are greeted by monkeys feasting on coconuts and vendors selling offerings to the devotees already lining up to get in to the temple.   As soon as we get in the temple, we are quickly guided through by one of the temple priests.  A few flowers in my hair and a pottu on my forehead is followed with a request for a donation.  We part with a few rupees before making our way out.  It is a cool morning and an interesting place to people watch. 

India is certainly a country where religion plays a major part in people’s lives.  No matter where we went, people in their hundreds, dressed in colourful garb, can be found worshipping in what appears to me unquestioning devotion. 

After breakfast we make our way to the Dutch Palace.  It is a lovely walk through tree lined streets in this interesting city and we finally find ourselves in the palace grounds.  The palace is impressive and I think would have rivalled Versailles in its time.  The grounds are well kept and we wander around outside, taking photographs and enjoying the day.

We have enjoyed our time in Mysore and tonight we will catch another night train from Bangalore.  The journey back is more organised as we have decided to take a train to Bangalore, grab dinner there before catching the night train.  The sheer numbers of homeless people at the train station in Bangalore is incredible.  Despite the time I have spent in India I am still taken aback by the homeless men and women sprawled outside the station.  The incredible disparity of the haves and have nots in India is disturbing and I wonder if there will ever be an answer to this problem.  There is no doubt this is a country of extremes and I am not sure I could be confronted with this reality everyday. 

“Truth is God”  Gandhi

A Kathkali Performance in Cochin

We arrive in Cochin to find a home for a night in a beautiful bungalow that is owned by Intrepid the company we are travelling with.  The house is open and cool, but fans and air conditioning are also provided in the spacious tiled rooms we were shown too.  I let out a little sigh of pleasure as I open the door to our room.  Ah..this experience is just getting better, and I don’t really want to leave each new place I discover in the State of Kerala.  Without a doubt this is my favourite part of India.

After a farmer’s lunch at the popular Dal Roti cafe, we have a few hours rest before heading out to our first theatre experience in India.  It was an interesting walk through the Cochin fort and Steve remarked he was amazed at the number of churches in this area.  The influence of the Portuguese is everywhere and the city is laid back and orderly and a far cry for the chaos of Chennai and Madurai.

We are here to enjoy a Kathkali performance.  On the way we are caught up in a colourful procession, vending its way to the local church which will be packed to capacity later in the evening.

Kathkali is a classical Indian stylised dance that originated in Kerala.  It is famous for its body movements, facial expressions and elaborate costumes that are accompanied by drums and the beating of cymbols.   As we walk in, we find the actors sprawled on the stage having their make up put on.  The hall is packed with foreign travellers who walk up casually to the stage with the telephoto lenses to catch a piece of this action. 

We have been given a written explanation of what the play is all about.  It is a rather simple story of boy meets a girl who is married, makes unwanted advances and is eventually slain by her adoring husband. 

Later, we are given a detailed explanation of what each of the hand gestures mean and one of the actors gives us a demonstration of the eye movements.  He can roll his eye balls to every part of his eye socket….it is certainly unnatural, looks strange and makes me feel uncomfortable and amazed at the same time.  The show proper finally starts and lasts about an hour.  It is the most slow moving  theatre I have ever seen and this is just a segment of what would normally be a 6 hour performance.  Other plays are known to go on for up to 12 hours and the die hard traditionalists in a village would probably be the only audience who could sit through all of that. 

Chand, our guide meets us after the show and we walk to the restaurant we have dinner in.  It has been an interesting introduction to Cochin.

Ammu said that human beings were creatures of habit, and it was amazing the kind of things one could get used to.   The God of Small Things

Kerala Backwaters Homestay…

Discovering the Kerala backwaters has certainly been a highlight of this tour.  The Kerala Backwaters are a network of canals, rivers, lakes and lagoons fed by 38 rivers with more than 900 km of waterway.  The backwaters are formed by the action of waves which have created low barrier islands across the mouth of rivers.  This system which has been compared to the Bayou in the US extends to more than half the State of Kerala.  Now clever installation of barriers prevent the intrusion of the brackish water and enables two paddy crops to be cultivated here.  The light green paddy fields stretch for miles and lends a beautiful touch to the landscape.

We are soo glad to be here.  We arrive at the Alleppey train station after quite a journey.  We had taken cars, a packed local train and then transferred to a boat to get here…but it was certainly worth it.  The journey on the water was so relaxing after the hot and crowded train ride.   Steve and I sit outside to enjoy the light breeze, take photos and wave at the locals.  Women from the village wash their clothes and bathe on the banks of these canals and it certainly appears to be the place where you would catch up on the neighbourhood gossip.

This area is famous for its houseboats, constructed from thatching that has been woven from the local coconut trees.  Many travellers spend a night on a houseboat but we are here to experience life with a local family.

Our homestay is certainly different to any of my previous experiences.  I had been expecting  very basic accommodation so I was quite surprised to find our selves in a very comfortable middle class home that was beautifully tiled, clean and comfortable.   I had prepared Steve to expect an outside toilet and to sleep on the floor, so we were more than delighted with the comfortable room we were shown too, with a lovely double bed and its own ensuite.  Incredible India……..full of surprises!

We sat down to lunch of veg curries and rice and chatted to  our family.  Our group has been split to various homes and Steve and I are the only visitors here.  Our family is lovely and have a son studying in Melbourne so they are pleased to meet us and share stories and photos about him.  The food here is very much like Sri Lankan cooking as they too use coconut milk in their curries.  We have an enjoyable lunch and catch a cat nap before joining the others for a walk through the village.

It is very relaxing here in the village we are staying at and unlike Varkala, which is quite a westernised little town this feels like a truly authentic Indian experience.  As we walk our host explains the benefits of the tropical vegetation we are surrounded by especially the coconut tree, which provides food, thatching, rope, furniture and many others uses for the people here.

Dinner is cooked for us by one of the other families and once again I enjoy the lentils, chicken curry and chappatis that remind me of my mum’s cooking.  I wish we were staying an extra night here but unfortunately, we will move on to Cochin tomorrow.  We wake up early the next morning to chat to our hosts and enjoy the early morning vibe by the water before saying goodbye to the back waters as we make our way back slowly by boat to the waiting transportation that will take us to Cochin.

Today has never happened, and it doesn't frighten me -Bjork

Chilling out in Varkala

We were thankful to get off the train at Varkala in one piece.  It had not been the most enjoyable of train journeys but we had been bracing ourselves for this experience for a few days.  While it was a second class section there was not much privacy in the 6 bunk bed compartment we found ourselves.  There was no curtain to close off the compartment from prying eyes or sheets on the hard benches that transitioned into beds during the night.  The rattle of the train coupled with the whirring of the fan and the cold night air that swooshed past seemed to keep me up for hours.  I finally fell into a half sleep but it must have been deeper than that because I had been completely oblivious to the comings and goings of my fellow travellers during the night.

The hectic chaos of Madurai has finally given way to the tropical, green rather wealthier village of Varkala.  As we drive by private van to our guest house I could almost have been back in Sri Lanka.  We freshen up and head for breakfast and our first view of the ocean from Varkala.   A steep cliff face falls away to reveal miles of beautiful beach and an inviting ocean.  We can’t wait to get down there….but our stomach are demanding we have breakfast first.

The menu has a refreshing mix of Western and Eastern cuisine and we tuck into sausages and eggs and wash that down with coffee and fruit juice.  The cool ocean breezes, the crash of the waves and the laid back feel of this slightly hippy village lends itself to a relaxed few days.  We are all excited at the prospect of finally unwinding in India.

The time here goes too quickly but we enjoy lazing about in the cafes, long walks on the beach, dips in the Indian Ocean and amazingly fresh sea food.  Perhaps the one thing that put a damper on my enjoyment was the groups of Indian men who seemed to walk up and down this beach just window shopping.  The strict rules that govern this culture means these men are not exposed to women in swim suits and have absolutely no shame in just staring.  I found it a little unsettling but realise that sadly it was the product of a culture that dictated strict rules for the interaction between the sexes and the clothing they wore. 

The other little oddity I found were the uniformed life guards that seemed to blow their whistles every few minutes and gesture madly at someone in the water.  Most people just seemed to ignore them and I wondered how they would fare in a real emergency given the fact they were fully clothed!

We give all activities a miss and indulge in the luxury of doing very little except to tear ourselves away from the cafe for a 90 minute Ayurvedic massage.  The ladies speak little English but keep asking every few minutes if the experience was nice.  Yes – I can vouch for that.  While there was absolutely no ambience in the place and the towels on the beds could have been fresh, they completely unravelled my knotted, travel worn body.  I promise myself to repeat this experience in Goa as well.

This place reminds me of Zanzibar, my favourite spice island and I vow that if we found ourselves in India again, I would certainly make another trip to Varkala!

"There is more to life than increasing its speed."   Gandhi

The Madness of Madurai

We catch a day train to Madurai.  It is a long ride that lasts all day and allows us to do a bit more bonding with our fellow travellers.  Chand our guide joins in on the interesting debates about marriage and the differences of life in the East and West.  What is most interesting though is the diversity of opinion about how life should be lived between the travellers from the west.  While some of us argue the benefits of flexible rules that allow for all types of arrangements between people who love each other, there appears to be a strong view that everyone should strive to live according to the more traditional rules of marriage! 

We arrive in Madurai to find a hectic, chaotic city.  The incessant blast of horns and the throngs of people going places never seem to stop.  After rooftop drinks that allows us to look down on the madness, we head to a local bar to get a taste of the real India. 

The bar is grotty and dark and the dingy atmosphere is one I would never have ventured in if I had been travelling independently.  The bar is patronised solely by men and they stare at us, perhaps wondering why we have disturbed their peace.  After a quick beer we disperse to clean up for dinner.  

We wake up early and head across the road for a breakfast of vaddai.  The stand is busy with men having a quick snack on their way to work.  I wonder where the women eat and wonder if I am breaking the rules again as I make my way to the counter and ask for our food to be parcelled up. 

The historic Meenakshi Temple is what has brought us to Madurai.  It is a temple dedicated to Parvati, also known as Meenakshi and her consort Shiva.  This temple is the heart and soul of Madurai and bare-bodied men in dhottis and women in various shades of red and orange fill the street leading up to it.  The temple attracts about 15,000 visitors on average, many Indians travel from far and near to worship here.   It is an amazing work of art and comprises many towers and sculptors.  It made the top 30 nominees for the New Seven Wonders of the World!

Madurai was a photographers delight.  The streets are filled with the most interesting people and I kept stepping back from the group to capture a piece of this city. 

We dine at a beautiful rooftop restaurant and are thankful to escape but we are still drawn to look down on the chaos of this city.  That night we catch the night train to Varkala. 

"India will teach us the tolerance and gentleness of mature mind, understanding spirit and a unifying, pacifying love for all human beings."  Will Durant

The Monuments of Mamallapuram

We pay a little extra to hire our own private bus and arrive early morning in Marmallapuram, in time to explore the monuments.  The earliest monuments here date back to the 7th century AD, and have been carved out of the surrounding rocky landscape.  It is a smaller version of Petra and remind us of the ruined cities in  Sri Lanka. 

We had planned to cycle to each monument but no bikes are available so we walk the 4 km instead.  It is quite hot and humid but the occasional breeze and shade from the trees give us a little respite.  It is interesting to walk the streets and experience life close up.  The trees are lined with artisans carving statues, and cows mingle easily with the ladies dressed in bright orange and red sarees.  These are the shades worn by the Hindu devotees unlike the white worn by the Buddhist pilgrims.  The colours lend a brightness and cheerfulness to the cities that is lacking in the laughter and dancing often seen in African cities.  I don’t get the same sense of happiness that I felt in Africa.

The monuments here are all from the Hindu faith and are mostly temples.  I was intrigued by the lighthouse which was constructed to guide sailors safely to shore.  The original structure, which was actually lit by fire stands next to the more modern construction still in use today.   We are quite exhausted by lunch time and walk down to a cafe on the beach.  It is beautiful expanse of white sand, littered with the boats of the fisherman who live here. 

Many sit on the hot sand, stringing or repairing their nets in time for the next catch.  The cafe owner’s bring out a tray with a tantalising array of fish, lobster and prawns.  We choose an assortment of seafood dishes ad indulge in the catch of the day.

We walk on the beach after lunch to enjoy the cool ocean breezes.  It is a nice change to be in a smaller town after the business of Chennai. 

After a bit of a rest, we visit the Shore Temple in the evening, so named because it is on the banks of the ocean.  A beautiful piece of architecture and a very scenic location.

We visit the Moonraker restaurant that night to dine on Tuna steak, which is tasty despite being drenched in garlic butter.  The restaurant reminds us that this area too was influenced by the 1970’s culture of the west.  We get a few staples for our train ride the next and turn in.  It has been a long day.  The hotel we are staying at is very basic but we are thankful for the whirring of the fan which allows us to drift off to sleep.

“He who litters, opens Evil’s door” sign in Mamallapurum

A Postcard from Chennai

We arrive in India in the early hours of the morning and check into our hotel with out too many dramas.  It is exciting to be here with Steve and he is already realising that India is a slightly more chaotic version of Sri Lanka….and this is a Sunday.   The airport is more like a bus stop and except for the taxi stand and a few ATMs there are not too many attractions for visitors from overseas.  We get to our hotel without getting ripped off and after checking in decide to take a tuk tuk to check out this city. 

The guy at reception has instructed our tuk tuk driver to take us to express street.  We thought it was  a local market but it turned out to be a massive shopping centre.  He obviously hadn’t realised we were not that kind of traveller.  Still, the mall provided a respite from the heat and chaos and the smells and sounds of this city…and we thought it might be a good opportunity to get a sim card.  Unfortunately, it was not to be.  The misuse of the internet has caused the government to put a 10 day hold on activating a sim card!   Not too great for travellers…but there was not getting around this!  This was to be our first example of Indian Bureaucracy at its best.  So, despite the fact we had come prepared with a mobile modem, we were not successful in setting up WIFI access. 

That afternoon we meet up with our Intrepid tour leader and group.  We are 12 travellers in all.  Besides another couple from Sydney, the group comprises of all females from the UK, Australia and a girl from Denmark.  We make friends as we travel to the Chennai Beach.  The beach is another example of how different life on this continent is.   The beach is teeming with activity.  People are selling al kinds of wares and families are sitting around gazing at the water.   Strangely, there is no one in the water.   Our guide Chan tells us that at its peak there could be 50,000 people here!

I think the smells, incessant sounds of honking horns, chaotic traffic, people milling about and spilling on to the street have all taken Steve by surprise.  This is a little different to Sri Lanka.  We visit the local cathedral and head for dinner.  Most meals on this trip will be Indian and Steve is about to get a baptism by fire…!

In religion, India is the only millionaire……the One land that all men desire to see, and having seen once, by even a glimpse, would not give that glimpse for all the shows of all the rest of the globe combined.  ~ Mark Twain (American writer)