For many non-indigenous
Australians, Ayers Rock is just a massive monolith in the middle of the
Australian continent that is begging to be conquered and photographed. To the
local Pitjantjatjara people, Uluru is a sacred place with great spiritual
significance. For thousands of years,
they conducted both men’s and women’s ceremonies here. With the discovery of
the rock by Europeans, this tradition was tragically impacted. We literally
trampled all over a sacred landscape.
We renamed it Ayers Rock and
we proceeded to climb it and photograph it with little or no respect for the
wishes of the traditional custodians who had considered this to be a sacred
site for thousands of years.
Today, more than half the
native mammal species that lived around this area are locally extinct and many
alien species have suppressed the native grasses. Within a short span of time,
we have managed to destroy a landscape that sustained indigenous people for
thousands of years.
People of both cultures are
now managing the park and I wonder is it possible for the two traditions to
co-exist? I want to believe the answer
is yes. We are a lot more enlightened than we were 200 years ago, but we have
destroyed their way of life and have insisted for many years that there is only
one way to live.
So, we gave them the dole, we
built them houses and wondered why they didn’t aspire to a 40 hour working week
and a life of debt that will enslave you for 30 years or more. Perhaps it is
because they know better. If you have come from a culture that only worked
about 4 hours a day to provide for your basic needs, then why would you aspire to
be locked up in an office for the better part of the day?
I often wonder if the lack of
respect in western cultures for the natural environment is because most urbanised
people have lost their connection to the land. They see the environment, as
something outside of their existence and find this idea of connection foreign.
While at the park visitors’
centre we watched a video, depicting an indigenous person’s perspective of how
westerners behave. The video says that the ‘white fellas’ are like ants. They all
come together to the rock, then run around taking photographs and climbing to
the top. At sunrise and sunset we
congregate at the same spots, then minutes
after the sun has risen or set we disperse. There are a lot of trigger happy
tourists but hardly any contemplation to discover the spirit of this incredible
place.
While we think of indigenous
people as nomadic, I am surprised to learn they only travelled within the
boundaries of their ‘country’. They were responsible for managing the land and
were entitled to its bounty including the animals that existed in it. The
waterholes were a key part of their life. They travelled from one to another,
learning or teaching the dreamtime stories, but only within the bounds of their
own country. They hunted at the waterholes very cautiously; only taking the
last animal, so as to not spook the rest of the herd and often digging a little
well some distance away to avoid leaving their scent at the waterhole.
I am begging to understand
why the rock is sacred. It was life giving. So they ‘worshipped’ the land that
provided for them and some of these practices were gender specific and taboo if
you were of the opposite gender. Hence the restrictions on taking photos as
they have no wish to inadvertently see places that are off limits. I read that
the Anangu’s request to refrain from climbing the rock comes from their desire
to keep all visitors safe but also because the path crosses a sacred
traditional Dreamtime track.
The ‘white fellas’ are slowly
learning to respect this sacred landscape and to learn to connect with nature
rather than to conquer it.
I believe the rock is a
sacred landscape. What about you?