When we realized that we could visit Gallipoli on a day trip from
Istanbul, we decided it would be worth the effort. An early morning rise and a 4-hour drive each
way was required but we were keen to learn a little more about the history of
this battle that is remembered in Australia every Anzac day. Our van had a number of visitors from the UK
and Australia but we realized later in the day that part of our party were
going off to visit Troy and that it was just us and the other Australian couple
who were going to Gallipoli.
Over the long drive south we got to know our fellow travellers. We had some interesting conversations with
Sally and Pete who were travellers from Adelaide and we found many common
threads in our lives. I am always amazed
at how easy it is to connect with many of the people we bump into in our
travels. The two older ladies from the
UK turned out to be sisters who were researching a book the younger of the two
was proposing to write about an adventurous sailing trip she had undertaken with
her dad and a friend while still a student.
Over lunch we listen in amazement to her stories. There is also an older Italian immigrant to
Australia in our midst. He is in his
early eighties and informs us he has just completed his 31st
marathon! And I thought I was adventurous…
We learn a little more about the Gallipoli Campaign, also referred to as
the Dardanelles Campaign, which took place in the Gallipoli peninsula during
the Ottoman Empire between April 1915 and January 1916, during World War
I. The idea behind this campaign was to
secure a sea route to Russia and the British and French launched this naval
campaign in an effort to force a route through the Dardanelles. The amphibious landing undertaken on the
Gallipoli peninsula was an attempt to capture Constantinople. After 8 months, the campaign failed with many
casualties amongst the Turks as well as the Allies.
The Turkish victory was a great moment at a time when the Ottoman Empire
was crumbling. It was a catalyst for the
Turkish War of Independence and resulted in the founding of the Republic of
Turkey under Mustafa Kemal Ataturk who had been a commander at Gallipoli. The campaign also resulted in a sense of
National consciousness and coming of age in Australia and we now commemorate
Anzac Day, a national holiday on the 25th of April.
I was surprised to learn there were Indians and Ceylonese who also lost
their lives in this campaign.
Our Turkish guide was full of information and we learnt a lot during our
visit. We got a real sense of what it
would have been like to be a soldier fighting in the trenches. It was a cold and dismal day during our visit
and we wondered how anyone could stand a wet winter in a trench. The trenches were full of water but the
soldiers had nowhere else to go. Many of
the kids who fought here were young teenagers, who had left home for the first
time. Many were also under the
impression they were going to fight the Germans and didn’t really know what
they were actually here to do till the very stages of their journey.
We were surprised to learn that the campaign involved the first aerial
reconnaissance and mapping of the terrain as well as location of the Turkish
companies by the Allied Forces. A common
story told in Australia is that the British dropped the Aussies on the wrong
beach but the reality of this was a little different. While the British indicated the stretch of
coastline that was best for the landing it was an Australian general that
determined the actual location and timing.
Our Turkish guide indicated this was the historical information in Australia’s
own war records.
As we visited a number of memorial sites in the peninsula we came across
these words of Ataturk, which we found verymoving. It confirmed for us there was no animosity
toward the Australians within the Turkish community about what happened in
Gallipoli.
"Those heroes that shed
their blood and lost their lives...You are now lying in the soil of a friendly
country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies
and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side now here in this country of ours...You,
the mothers, who sent their sons from far away countries wipe away your tears;
Your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their
lives on this land they have become our sons as well."
My wish is that we can learn from history and eliminate war completely
and find a way to resolve our conflicts through understanding and
communication.